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Diy- fog lights

82K views 91 replies 33 participants last post by  Zshep 
#1 · (Edited)
when i first looked into this i was so lost so i will try to cover everything.

first to buy the housings you will need to buy them from jpcarparts . com. the part numbers are in the picture below for each side. you will need to send them a inquiry for the 2 parts and your address for a quote for your parts and shipping. when they ask for the info of your car in the inquiry i just out that i had a 2015 toyota auris, i didn't put a chassis number and they never questioned it. they will send you the invoice with a link in the email to pay them through paypal the exact amount for the invoice. once you have done that they will ship them out a few days later. for the actual lights you can buy them off eBay or anywhere you prefer on the internet, i used 2011+ corolla fog lights.


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for install this is the way i did it, you can do it however you prefer, I'm not responsible for what you do to your car.

to start you do not need to remove the front bumper. there are 2 smaller pieces of the "skid plate" right in front of the tires/below the fogs. remove the 2 screws and the plastic push clip (see pics)


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then remove the housings. on each tab there is a smaller tab/clip on it. i put a flat head screw driver toward the inside of the housing to pry it out while popping each tab out. there is a total of six and its kind of a pain to do.


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once those are off the new fog lights will mount from the inside. working on the right one, there is a slot on the bottom left where the fog will slide into, then the two top mounts will screw into the bumper. i didn't use the bottom right screw because there isn't a place for a screw to go.


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now to run the harness in the engine bay. to run the wires to each fog light i dropped the left side next to the battery and there is a square opening that leads over to the fog light area. for the right side i ran it in front of the radiator then when i got to the sub frame next the the radiator i moved the foam and pushed the wire through back into the engine area then through the same square as the left side. plus them into the bulbs and screw the skid plates for each side back in.


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next remove the fuse on the harness until the end. run the red power wire over to the positive of the battery. blue(ground) i attached to to the ground for the battery to the body which is to the right of the battery its a 10 mil socket.


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next is the hardest part, run the yellow wire that is the switched wire to close the relay, i chose to use a screw driver and poke a hole in the rubber grommet that the main wiring harness goes through the firewall, then taped the wire to a short piece of metal hanger and pushed it through. it was a pain lol. it will come out right above the gas pedal on the inside of the firewall.


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before your able to see where the wire comes out you'll have to take off the under dash protector. whatever its called, it has 2 phillips head and a clip in the center.


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then where the mirror switch is. remove the right side blank and remove the phillips head screw holding that panel in place. then start at the bottom of that piece, to the right and left side of the hood latch and pull it, easy though. working your way up. it has like 8 or so push clips holding it in. (the piece at the top that runs along side the cluster looks like it needs to be removed but it doesn't. it will pop out and then pop back in without removing it).


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next pick which spot you want your switch in and remove the blank and pop your switch in. the blue wire i used a self tapper and tapped it into the dash frame. the red wire i used the mirror illumination wire. its the dark green wire on the end of the plug(one row of wires). i just cut mine and used a butt connector and put the red in with one side. this will let the fogs come on with just the running lights and with the headlights too.


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plug the plug into your new switch, and plug back into the mirror control. pop the dash piece back in. zip tie everything up and put the under dash protector on. put the fuse back in the harness and test it out.

let me know if i missed anything or if you have any questions. it was pretty simple it took me about an hour and a half to do.

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#5 ·
**** i didn't think they came out so small.. wtf. i'll try to fix it, give me a few minutes
 
#6 ·
there ya go bud. used a different website lol....
 
#32 ·
thanks bud i appreciate it



When did they ship them out? Just curious how long shipping takes. They shipped mine yesterday.
mine took 5 business days from japan to virginia from the day they shipped.
 
#35 · (Edited)
My Bezel kit came in today. Also ordered the fog light kit with LED bulbs. There are so many kits out there it is hard to make a choice on which one to get. The reason I bought this one is the LED has a small projector and it has a normal harness connection. From what I was seeing most all the later make Corolla kits have the same housing. If you don't want LED and go standard I would recommend getting a good quality bulb. I read that some of the bulbs are cheap and don't last long. JM2C.... if you run wiring through a "lightening hole" make sure you secure it so it doesn't rub or is protected in some way. Thanks to all who took time and provided info from the beginning of the thread. That was great help! I'll update when kit installed.

BTW the hole opening is 2 7/8" dia.
 

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#36 · (Edited)
Fog light kit came today. Had the LED bulbs and regular H11 Halogen bulbs. I've tried to educate myself and some may say that is not possible but from what I can gather LED lighting for FOG is not as good as regular FOG halogen lamps. Taking that into account looks or practical? My housings made in China. Glass lenses. standard harness, 15 Amp fuse. I've read of melting housings etc. A 55 watt bulb X2 is 9.2 Amps. A 80 watt bulb x2 is 13.2 Amps. Consider that when you get bulbs or LED. I'm going to wrap my fogs in yellow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNNEe-1i8dg


For general reference:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fcvdLxncrI
 
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#37 · (Edited)
Started on the Fog lights today. I put her up on jack stands since I have other plans in work then took that large plastic panel off from under the lower grille and then pulled the wheel well panels out of the way so I could get some eyes up in there. I removed the old bezels from inside pushing down on the clip tabs and working my way around with one hand along the edge of the bezel outside and one hand inside on the clips till it popped out. I failed at the yellow wrap on the lights or the stuff I bought was really cheap. I did it 4 times and gave up. So don't buy that tint I put in my other post. I used the supplied screws and even if they are a little long they do no touch the new bezel. It sure does add some pazazz to the car. Again thanks for the info so I could add them. Still have the wiring and a boresite to finish them up. Some additional pictures.
 

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#38 ·
More pictures. I pulled out the firewall seal, twisted it around and used the tube to run my wires. I had to remove the switch connector. I used safety wire and electrical tape with a little vaseline. Reinstalled firewall seal and applied clear silicone. Light connector harnesses too long so I'll have to shorten them to the lights. I had that loose red wire at the switch connector and lucky that it was addressed to use the dark green wire from the power mirrors. Ops check good.
 

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