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Diy- fog lights

82K views 91 replies 33 participants last post by  Zshep 
#1 · (Edited)
when i first looked into this i was so lost so i will try to cover everything.

first to buy the housings you will need to buy them from jpcarparts . com. the part numbers are in the picture below for each side. you will need to send them a inquiry for the 2 parts and your address for a quote for your parts and shipping. when they ask for the info of your car in the inquiry i just out that i had a 2015 toyota auris, i didn't put a chassis number and they never questioned it. they will send you the invoice with a link in the email to pay them through paypal the exact amount for the invoice. once you have done that they will ship them out a few days later. for the actual lights you can buy them off eBay or anywhere you prefer on the internet, i used 2011+ corolla fog lights.


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for install this is the way i did it, you can do it however you prefer, I'm not responsible for what you do to your car.

to start you do not need to remove the front bumper. there are 2 smaller pieces of the "skid plate" right in front of the tires/below the fogs. remove the 2 screws and the plastic push clip (see pics)


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then remove the housings. on each tab there is a smaller tab/clip on it. i put a flat head screw driver toward the inside of the housing to pry it out while popping each tab out. there is a total of six and its kind of a pain to do.


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once those are off the new fog lights will mount from the inside. working on the right one, there is a slot on the bottom left where the fog will slide into, then the two top mounts will screw into the bumper. i didn't use the bottom right screw because there isn't a place for a screw to go.


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now to run the harness in the engine bay. to run the wires to each fog light i dropped the left side next to the battery and there is a square opening that leads over to the fog light area. for the right side i ran it in front of the radiator then when i got to the sub frame next the the radiator i moved the foam and pushed the wire through back into the engine area then through the same square as the left side. plus them into the bulbs and screw the skid plates for each side back in.


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next remove the fuse on the harness until the end. run the red power wire over to the positive of the battery. blue(ground) i attached to to the ground for the battery to the body which is to the right of the battery its a 10 mil socket.


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next is the hardest part, run the yellow wire that is the switched wire to close the relay, i chose to use a screw driver and poke a hole in the rubber grommet that the main wiring harness goes through the firewall, then taped the wire to a short piece of metal hanger and pushed it through. it was a pain lol. it will come out right above the gas pedal on the inside of the firewall.


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before your able to see where the wire comes out you'll have to take off the under dash protector. whatever its called, it has 2 phillips head and a clip in the center.


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then where the mirror switch is. remove the right side blank and remove the phillips head screw holding that panel in place. then start at the bottom of that piece, to the right and left side of the hood latch and pull it, easy though. working your way up. it has like 8 or so push clips holding it in. (the piece at the top that runs along side the cluster looks like it needs to be removed but it doesn't. it will pop out and then pop back in without removing it).


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next pick which spot you want your switch in and remove the blank and pop your switch in. the blue wire i used a self tapper and tapped it into the dash frame. the red wire i used the mirror illumination wire. its the dark green wire on the end of the plug(one row of wires). i just cut mine and used a butt connector and put the red in with one side. this will let the fogs come on with just the running lights and with the headlights too.


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plug the plug into your new switch, and plug back into the mirror control. pop the dash piece back in. zip tie everything up and put the under dash protector on. put the fuse back in the harness and test it out.

let me know if i missed anything or if you have any questions. it was pretty simple it took me about an hour and a half to do.

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#86 ·
I bought my fog light kit a while ago and finally got around to installing it. I saw where people complained about seeing the paint through the honeycomb design so I applied black vinyl to that area which worked out well.

Question though for others that have installed these fog lights. The kit came with only 4 screws, did you use only 2 per side? I see that one tab slides into a space but it looks like you could still put 4 screws in each side.

Here are the 2 different housings.


After removing the OEM cover.


Cut out a template.


Cut out the vinyl.


After vinyl is applied.


No more silver paint seen through honeycomb. Looks like it did OEM.
 
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#87 ·
I finished mounting my fog lights today. I ran the wire harness from the fog light up near the battery. I still have to wire in the switch and I'll be done. Here is the fog light mounted with the blacked out grill area.


Here is the final result with the grill back on over the fog light. I love how it turned out with the black out treatment. Much better than the silver showing through the grill.
 
#88 ·
After trying to connect my fogs to turn on and off when my head lights come on I tried taping into the ecu in the drivers side and taped into a ground and no my low or hi beams don,t work. Checked all relays, fuses and bulbs and they are all good. Just no headlights work. Any help would be great.
 
#90 · (Edited)
Okay, so I’m lost. Virginia requires the fog lights to turn off when the high beams are on. So, I can’t just rely on an interior switch. Using a Bosch-style 5-pin relay, I’ve tried every single wiring permutation and cannot get the fog lights to turn on whatsoever. Everything’s been tested with a voltmeter, so I know I’m getting current to the lights (tested in living room floor). I have the switching wire from terminal 86 going through a fuse tap to one of the high beam fuses, terminal 30 direct to the battery positive terminal, and 85 wired to a single ground wire for relay and light ground directly off of the negative battery terminal. Turning on the high beams is making the relay switch terminals (you can distinctly hear it clicking). It’s the second relay, the first one was bad, and I doubt I’ve got two bad ones. No matter what, I cannot get 12 volts through terminal 87 or 87A (I’ve wired it both ways just to make sure) with either low beams or high beams. Any ideas? Has anyone gotten their fogs to work and turn off with high beams? What did you all do? I searched everywhere and cannot find any info on this specific to the iM and I doubt every member here lives somewhere where the fogs can be on with the high beams and using just an interior switch is legal. I’m frustrated lol. Thanks a ton in advance.
 
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